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Las Gladiadoras de los Andes

¿Chicas peleando en el lodo? Naaaaaaaahhh… Lo que aguanta es verle los calzones a las cholas. Garantizado. Hasta hoy me aferro a la creencia de que éste ha sido el mejor dinero que he invertido en una atracción turística. Bueno, no sé si el mejor, pero son apenas 15 dólares for god’s sake! Cierto es que no he encontrado nada parecido y lo que vi allá arriba fue una sorpresa tras otra.

O acaso ustedes nunca se han preguntado ¿qué será que esconden las cholitas bajo sus abultadas polleras?

Al menos para este caso se encontrarán de todo menos unas piernas flácidas. Y sí, porque para participar en lucha libre se requiere un estado físico vigoroso, más aun teniendo en cuenta la talla de sus contrincantes. Aquí las cholitas pelean contra todos, desde Spiderman hasta con la reencarnación de El Santo, todos hombres y superhombres feroces. Ahora bien, para aquellos que buscan algo -todavía más- políticamente incorrecto, también hay enfrentamientos de mujeres contra mujeres, agarrándose las trenzas, mostrándoles los calzones.

 

LOS DETALLES

DÓNDE: Multifuncional de El Alto – Bolivia

CUÁNDO: Domingos

Las peleas se realizan todos los domingos y el bus recoge a los turistas en el hostal o por lo menos hace una ruta por el centro histórico y la parte turística de La Paz, por lo cual es fácil acordar un lugar de encuentro.

Generalmente en los hostales te dan información al respecto y te hacen la reservación; sino, también se pueden encontrar aliados en la Calle de las Brujas (centro) y se reconocen porque tienen un sticker o un poster con la caricatura de las cholitas en su fachada.  

DURACIÓN: Todo la tarde. Llegar a El Alto lleva 30 minutos y se vuelve a La Paz entrando la noche (tipo 6-7 pm).

COSTO: 100 bolivianos (apróx) equivalen más o menos a 15 dólares.

INCLUYE

REFRIGERIO En realidad es un pastelito con “queso” o “carne” y un vaso de gaseosa, que termina siendo una empanada de pan algo seca y con un relleno imaginario. Sin embargo, está bien para pasar el tiempo o para arrojársela a los luchadores en aras de animar la contienda.

SOUVENIR En el bus te dan una postal y  llavero de una cholita sosteniendo una bandera de papel. Es lindo y está muy bien hecho, a fin de cuentas recordemos que en El Alto hay talleres de costura y confección por montones (algunos de los llamados “Sweatshops”); en otras palabras, los costureros de esta ciudad son de talla mundial y el llaverito es un lindo recuerdo.

FOTOS CON LA CHOLITA Al final siempre se dedica tiempo para que la Cholita pose con cada uno de los asistentes. Aunque hay varias cholitas, habrá siempre una que es la que viaja con el grupo desde el principio, quien de hecho va muy bien arreglada y con un ajuar impecable. A medida que se va subiendo a El Alto, el guía del bus explica cuál es la influencia tanto europea como indígena que se ha adoptado en la vestimenta típica de las cholitas.

También se hace una parada en un mirador para poder sacar fotos de La Paz o “la ollada”, como es conocida entre sus habitantes. La ciudad, valga decir que es muy bonita, además porque alrededor hay varios nevados y montañas espectaculares, y dentro la mayoría de sus casas tienen la fachada en ladrillo (si se pinta la fachada, el gobierno cobra más impuestos).

GUÍA TURÍSTICA En el bus y durante todo el recorrido viaja un guía que explica tanto en inglés como en español todo tipo de detalles. Pasa desde lo más particular de la cholita hasta las comidas típicas y las prácticas económicas en el país. Todo está muy bien organizado, la información es relevante e interesante.

 

NO INCLUYE

ABRIGO. A pesar de estar sólo 100 metros más arriba de La Paz, el cambio climático se siente en cada hueso del cuerpo. El frío que hace en El Alto, especialmente cuando cae la tarde, puede ponerlo a temblar por toda la jornada. En todo caso, siempre es posible salir y buscar un mercado a un par de cuadras cerca del coliseo, donde es fácil encontrar ventas ambulantes con todo tipo de ropa.

MEDICINAS. Si sufre de Sorojchi –el llamado “mal de altura”, ese que da dolor de cabeza, náuseas, aturdimiento en los oidos, falta de aire, fatiga y otro tipo de incomodidades- será mejor que antes de viajar se compre alguna medicina para evitarlo. Se puede preguntar en cualquier farmacia, allí venden unas píldoras que salen a menos de un dólar.

O sí prefiere una solución más criolla, puede mascar algo de hoja de coca durante el viaje. Con ello cerrará el ciclo alegórico que representa toda la experiencia boliviana.

 

POSDATA

Se puede ir de manera independiente sin contratar ningún tour. Básicamente se debe tomar un bus que los lleve hasta El Alto. El lugar donde se realizan los encuentros, el Multifuncional, queda en una de las vías principales y allí mismo se compran las boletas.

Hacerlo de esta manera les ahorrará un par de dólares.

 

LUCHA_LIBRE_BOLIVIANA_LLB

Les advierto: por algo se llama lucha libre. En Bolivia. Lucha libre en Bolivia: ¡Cholitas Wrestling!

La lucha libre boliviana es algo que va más allá de ver sillas quebrándose sobre la espalda de alguien, al menos en mi experiencia se incluyó a un hombre que fue quemado vivo, algo que evidentemente no fue planeado por nadie.

Aún recuerdo cuando el sujeto cayó frente a mí a menos de medio metro, con la piel del pecho y del hombro consumiéndose. Ya se le estaba empezando a poner algo rojo, la sangre llegada a la superficie y él tuvo que pedir un tiempo. Se quedó en el piso manteniendo la cortísima distancia conmigo, sin más barreras que una soga que delimitaba el comienzo de los asientos mientras el hombre se retorcía de dolor. Cuando por fin pareció soportarlo, se levantó de un golpe y volvió al ring a buscar venganza, por su cara y su actitud daba la impresión de que estaba bastante cabreado. Era un luchador que si acaso tendría 18 años y a quien su rival podría fácilmente doblarle la edad y el peso, razones suficientes para que al final venciera. El grandote lo festejó sin sutilezas y sin darle importancia a lo delicado que seguía su compañero. Es comprensible que el ganador se vanagloriara tanto, al fin y al cabo por experiencia sabía que no era prudente arriesgarse a dañarnos la fantasía construida especialmente para nosotros, los preciados asistentes, ni robárseles el show a las cholitas, quienes aparecieron unos momentos después.

¿La asistencia médica? Todo esto sucede en El Alto. Si bien es la segunda mayor ciudad de Bolivia, esta actividad parece casi ilegal -si es que existen las leyes en ese sitio del mundo- y surge como otra manera de rebuscarse la vida. No obstante, la práctica ha ido tomando fuerza entre la gente y estas gladiadoras se vuelven cada vez más populares, tanto que ya son una atracción de ferias y carnavales a nivel nacional.

Pero sin desviarme mucho del tema, hoy yo me limito a darle un mensaje a los  visitantes, decirles que lo mejor es estar alerta y ya les explicaré por qué:

No está de más comentar que durante el espectáculo algunos asistentes -esos que viven lejos de Latinoamérica y que nunca en su vida se imaginaban algo así- se alborotarán y chillarán de excitación. Cuando esto pase, ellos mismos empezarán a tirar trozos de comida al ring y las cholitas terminan con las trenzas llenas de melcocha, migas de pan y gaseosa. Por supuesto, ellas han templado el carácter y sabrán cómo lidiar este tipo de situaciones. ATENCIÓN: Les recomiendo no llevar nada pesado, es muy posible que en medio del espectáculo tengan que saltar súbitamente de sus asientos y escapar así de los ataques indígenas. Me refiero con ello a que la cholita bien puede coger una botella llena de gaseosa y rociarla sobre el público para darles una lección a aquellos turistas entusiastas. Este es el límite del peligro que ciertamente no suena tan grave, pero que quede constancia para que luego no salgan todos empapados y que no me digan que no les advertí.

Pero en fin. Las cholitas saben transmitir la adrenalina, de eso que no quede duda. Teniendo en cuenta lo anterior recuerden tomarse la foto antes de que empiecen las batallas. Sino al final tendrán a su lado a una cholita ensangrentada, despelucada y furiosa (no mentira, furiosas no, ellas son un caramelito); de cualquier manera será ella la que se llevará la atención, ni se preocupe usted por salir bien en la foto, más bien vaya y cuéntele a sus amigos que esas mujeres bolivianas son de lo más bravo que existe sobre la tierra.

 

Publicado por

Mayeli Espinosa

Mayeli Espinosa

Gimme arepa con café, baby! Oh yeah!

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  75. A fascinating discussion is worth comment. There’s no doubt that that you should publish more about this subject matter, it may not be a taboo matter but generally people do not talk about such topics. To the next! Kind regards!!

  76. If you happen to be still on the fence: seize your favourite earphones, head down in the direction of a Easiest Get and check with in direction of plug them into a Zune then an iPod and see which a single appears improved to by yourself, and which interface makes on your own smile more. Then you will realize which is right for you.

  77. The new Zune browser is incredibly Terrific, yet not as Excellent as the iPod’s. It operates perfectly, nonetheless just isn’t as fast as Safari, and contains a clunkier interface. If oneself sometimes system on getting the internet browser that is not an issue, but if you might be designing towards examine the world wide web alot in opposition to your PMP then the iPod’s larger show and far better browser may possibly be sizeable.

  78. Arms down, Apple’s app retail outlet wins by way of a mile. It’s a substantial number of all varieties of apps vs a fairly sad final decision of a handful for Zune. Microsoft consists of courses, especially within the realm of game titles, still I am not of course I would want toward wager upon the foreseeable future if this attribute is sizeable toward by yourself. The iPod is a much improved choice within that circumstance.

  79. Hmm is anyone else experiencing problems with the pictures on this blog loading? I’m trying to figure out if its a problem on my end or if it’s the blog. Any feed-back would be greatly appreciated.

  80. The Zune concentrates on being a Portable Media Player. Not a net browser. Not a match machine. Possibly inside the long run it’s going to do even better in those areas, still for at this time it’s a Good course toward set up and listen towards your audio and flicks, and is without having peer in just that respect. The iPod’s pros are its net checking out and apps. If all those stable added compelling, quite possibly it is your least complicated final decision.

  81. To produce a good impression in 1 shot, one has to know nicely how to carry their charisma of attracting other people.|Footwear that are specifically developed for outside activities usually have ticker and anti slip sole. Well, this is most likely the last factor you need to worry about. As we know branded products are costlier than generic goods.|Cost apart, they might not always look good on you. Whatever type of footwear you are looking for, you will certainly discover the desired type of footwear on-line. “It was a difficult time for the metropolis back again then.|Want to make sure no shoes and baggage only appear fantastic, but fits nicely. At those stores, you will get different kinds of footwear for males from some of the renowned brand names. The degree of danger depends on your desires.|The internet-shops offer you enormous choices in all the categories. The great part is that sellers are continuously including things to Etsy, so there are new products daily! I checked all the leading shoe designers for a pattern.|The outcome of gel material stunned the shoes market greatly. Shoes that appear great on Susan might not essential be suitable for you. Advance tracks, like “We Can’t Quit” and “Wrecking Ball”, are tearing up the charts.|You will be in a position to conserve more money if you order two or much more bottles. The cost of one bottle of bowtrol is $39.ninety five. You can be one of the many consumers that assistance the crafters on Etsy.|You will just have to click on the item that you want and you can instantly have it. Aspis Forte is accessible at very low price. It buys directly from leading manufacturers, so it sells at a cheap price.|Attempt it and you may not regret for purchasing such a pair of running shoes. In 2010, I saved more than $200 on fitness center footwear and athletic apparel alone! Vimax tablets can be found on amazon market.|Most of the portals provide 10025 money back in case the customer returns the item. But the typical size chart is not be suitable for running. The most notable feature of Aspis Forte is reduced cost.|The key interest is that the most comfy footwear for you. Shoes that look good on Susan may not essential be suitable for you. Width in company with size, makes the shoes very best for operating.|These footwear are as light-excess weight as feasible, but also extremely tough. Acquire much more friction between the ft and the shoe, it is a risk to hurt the feet. But the typical dimension chart is not be appropriate for running.|If you’re used to using higher road stores then you might be lacking out on some of these benefits. Pay for each click on advertising is here to stay. It is the greatest technologies in shoes factories.|This excludes the discount you will get when you use Vimax coupon code. Keeping security and tenderness in thoughts, it is always great to go for gentle soled shoes. That is why a lady is usually very particular about her footwear.|If you don’t like Endless Footwear, there are plenty of other places to order from. But the common dimension chart is not be appropriate for operating. They are very best for those who exhibit serious over pronation.|However, some people do make their footwear their trademark and put on similar kind of shoes all their life.

  82. JTY64J I think this is a real great article post.Much thanks again. Keep writing.

  83. Greetings, I do think your blog may be having internet browser compatibility issues. Whenever I look at your site in Safari, it looks fine however when opening in IE, it’s got some overlapping issues. I just wanted to give you a quick heads up! Apart from that, wonderful blog!

  84. Can I just say what a relief to find someone who actually knows what theyre talking about on the internet. You definitely know how to bring an issue to light and make it important. More people need to read this and understand this side of the story. I cant believe youre not more popular because you definitely have the gift.

  85. Good post. I learn something new and challenging on websites I stumbleupon every day. It will always be exciting to read content from other writers and use something from other websites.

  86. Great – I should certainly pronounce, impressed with your web site. I had no trouble navigating through all tabs and related information ended up being truly easy to do to access. I recently found what I hoped for before you know it in the least. Reasonably unusual. Is likely to appreciate it for those who add forums or anything, website theme . a tones way for your customer to communicate. Nice task.

  87. Next time I read a blog, Hopefully it does not fail me as much as this particular one. After all, Yes, it was my choice to read through, however I truly believed you would probably have something useful to talk about. All I hear is a bunch of complaining about something that you could possibly fix if you weren’t too busy seeking attention.

  88. The Zune concentrates on becoming a Transportable Media Player. Not a internet browser. Not a sport machine. Quite possibly in the foreseeable future it will do even better in these areas, nevertheless for at this time it is really a fantastic way towards prepare and listen toward your audio and videos, and is devoid of peer within just that regard. The iPod’s advantages are its net browsing and purposes. If people solid a lot more compelling, maybe it is your excellent determination.

  89. This is the right blog for anyone who wants to find out about this topic. You realize so much its almost hard to argue with you (not that I actually would want…HaHa). You definitely put a new spin on a topic thats been written about for years. Great stuff, just great!

  90. If you might be continue to upon the fence: get your favourite earphones, thoughts down in direction of a Least difficult Buy and inquire toward plug them into a Zune then an iPod and watch which a single seems superior to on your own, and which interface creates oneself smile more. Then you are going to notice which is instantly for by yourself.

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